This week critic billaddison reviews Spoon by H, the Korean restaurant that David Chang declared his “restaurant of the year.”
As a teenager, Yoonjin Hwang won a piano scholarship playing Chopin’s polyrhythmic “Fantaisie-Impromptu.” Later, at Oberlin College, she studied the pipe organ, exploring its profound range of timbres. To disappear now into a bowl of her pork belly and dumpling soup at her Beverly Boulevard cafe, Spoon by H, is to taste the food of a chef who’s been thinking about improvisation and texture and harmonics her entire life., Korean rice cake and dumpling soup.
But local publications eventually caught on and word spread. Saturday lines started trailing down the sidewalk, and Hwang began receiving the next-level attention she deserves. The pork belly and dumpling soup is Hwang’s magnum opus. It gets worthy competition from a recent variation featuring braised on-the-bone short rib in an alabaster broth that thrums with beefiness from oxtail and bone marrow.
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