This year marks ProenzaSchouler’s 20th anniversary but instead of looking back, designers Jack Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez are focused on the future—namely to a summer 2023 that’s lived to the fullest.
Photo by Arturo Holmes/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows
Digital rainfall cascaded down the walls of Hall des Lumières in New York City at Proenza Schouler’s spring 2023 runway presentation. The first model to open the show wore an angular crop top that showered down a halo of white fringe, and the black draped skirt with which it was paired could have resembled a moody cloud.
The theme for the collection was clearly the elements—but most importantly, water, and its unique way of movement. The show notes described the collection as “an unabashed cacophony of spirit, of joy, of the sensual and tactile qualities that bring pleasure to life,” and described “water as a symbol of life that floods the narrative and intersects with the designers’ deep-rooted personal histories.
Beyond the tribute to liquid, fringe—a favorite of designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez—was the defining thread pulled through the collection’s entire narrative. There were white fringe separates worn by Kendall Jenner, then admired by front row stars Christine Quinn, Emily Ratajkowski, and Karlie Kloss.Fern-green fishnet knits were adorned with metallic fringe, double-tiered sleeves had hanging fringe, and suiting was covered in mini, golden-fringed medallions.
“Much like last season, the contours of the body are key, only this time they are less restrained, allowing the natural curves of a woman’s body to shape the garment itself,” read the show notes.
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