It was all about simplicity and normalcy at Prada’s spring 2023 menswear show. Classic pieces took over the runway as Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada explored the classicism and spontaneity found in everyday dressing. See the full collection here:
Asked backstage what he and Mrs. Prada were thinking when they put together this collection, Raf Simons cheerily countered: “What dothink we’ve been thinking?” With a charming appearance of regret, Mrs. Prada smilingly added that under current Prada protocols, post-show critical comment is “forbidden.” One fellow scribbler standing close by only half heard and thought she’d meant that Forbidden was the theme of the collection. He was disambiguated.
The first character we cracked was suiting. It came black, skinny in the pant and cropped at the top of cowboy boots. Jackets were single or 1.5-breasted, cut slim and low. Then up popped leather: frisson-making black double-zip short-shorts worn against sleeveless tops and coats. Shortly afterwards the shorts came accented with a series of striped rib knits.
Next up were some leather-edged back-buttoned shirts in shopping bag checks, with craftily naïf ric-rac trims that echoed Prada’s pyramid cipher. There was a brief section of attractive washed denim. Sneakers, cool sneakers, appeared between those Cuban heeled boots.
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