How pizza fritte brings me home for the holidays.
“Good, George,” I’d reply, like I had since I was a toddler. George and Sam: pretend names, like a secret handshake.
Most of my family liked dipping the hot pizza fritte into a bowl of sugar, pressing it down and flipping it to the other side so the whole thing glistened with crystals. Not me. I preferred it plain: a hot piece of dough, crispy and golden on the outside, soft and bubbly on the inside. Simple and delicious.
As the last few came out, I’d grab two or three, burning my fingers, but it was the only way to get some without waiting for the next batch. Once they were piled up, he was off—a few quick steps to the table. But before the plate left his hand, they’d disappear in a flurry of fingers. He’d return to the stove carrying the plate, now topped only with oil-soaked paper towels, laughing all the way.
I haven’t lived close enough to join those pizza-fritte-filled Sundays for more than 20 years. Regardless of my attendance, the gatherings became fewer and farther between. My cousins and I grew up and started our own families and traditions. Some of us moved away. Our parents took on weekend projects and traveled more. Many of the voices that filled those Sundays with stories and laughter are no longer with us, my grandmother included.
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