“Our look is good enough to be celebrated when it’s in fashion and it’s cool for you, but we are still not appreciated enough to carry out those very looks, which are ours to begin with.' .
It is often the case that Black hairstylists are primarily hired to work with Black talent and models, as a lot of their white counterparts are not trained to work with Black hair. Their presence on sets for major photo shoots and luxury advertising campaigns is a necessity, nevertheless a limiting one, as it usually disregards the fact that they are fully trained to style all types of hair.
White hairstylists are primarily educated using textbooks and material that celebrates white standards of beauty. It’s then a personal decision to extend their education, by enrolling in institutions such as Dudley School of Beauty or taking a masterclass from a Black stylist, where learning how to do Black hair would be the focus. Not many make this decision.
Nai’vasha, whose work with textured hair has earned her the title “Curl Queen,” nonetheless rejects the notion that this accolade has pigeonholed her career. “It’s powerful. I don’t need straight or white hair to define me as an artist. I know who I am. I know my texture and I always have,” she said.
Subsequently, more natural hairstyles appeared on major runways at Burberry, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Prada, directly influencing the standards of beauty on red carpets. Only after being presented through the lens of white luxury is natural Black hair starting to become more socially acceptable and mainstream.
We need to find a way to recalibrate the power and validation of the white lens and gaze and for it to not be white at all and become an accurate reflection of the world in which we live. Diversity must happen at the top and trickle down to the bottom, and until it does, Black creatives must say no to accepting anything that does not match what their white counterparts are being offered.
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