Alastair Little, one of the most important chefs in the modern history of British food, has died at 72
It’s by now a wry truism that nearly all of modern British food is modern European food with an accent, habits from France, Spain, and Italy adapted to what grows and lives here. None of this trio, which joined Little’s restaurant in a quartet, were really cooking British food. Little, as chef and baker Dan Lepard recalls for the ‘, was primarily doing what he learned in Italy and from Marcella Hazan.
Eight years later, in 1995, a second restaurant would follow, off Ladbroke Grove. In that time, two people called Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver had opened a restaurant called St.
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