Two of New York's buzziest new sushi parlors are transcendent, if you can handle the bros you'll likely be dining with
One of the modern truths of New York gastronomy is that eating expensive sushi means witnessing the wealthy carry out their extravagant existences. At Masa, I watched a party of four wolf down $700 worth of wagyu in a minute. “You’ll be able to pay for a year’s worth of flights with the points from this meal,” one of them said to the man stuck with the check.
Shortly after he kicked off his omakase at Noda last week, a man in a gray suit emitted a subtle “wow” as he ate his silkywith uni and caviar. It’s possible I did the same. The white pudding was stunning, enrobing the tongue with its fats and softening the briny blow of the urchin. A few minutes later, as I was contemplating a nori-wrapped scallop, the shellfish sugars juxtaposed against the coastal-breeze tautness of the seaweed, that same guy exclaimed, “Wow, they nailed that.
Patrons enter by walking into an anonymous office building, past an unmarked door, and into a purple-hued lounge, a posh holding pen that designer Ken Fulk, using the backwards tropes of Orientalism,as a “James Bond opium den.” A host pulls back a curtain and escorts everyone to the semi-circular bar, flanked by 10 pink velvet stools. The space more closely recalls an avant-garde cocktail parlor than a traditional sushi spot.
If Noda has the air of a dinner party, letting cordial cocktail conversations carry over into the sushi bar, the omakase at Sushi Noz, owned by brothers David and Joshua Foulquier, channels a more formal ballet. The restaurant’s website likens the restaurant to a Kyoto temple, though the chef has also compared his nightly meals, which start at $325, to. It is performance before a rapt audience.
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