Legendary Copenhagen restaurant Noma announces its closure in 2024; critiques of fine-dining labor practices ensue.
Noma, which has been voted one of the world’s best restaurants, just announced that it will be closing its doors at the end of 2024. The legendary restaurant ushered in a new age of hyper-local, hyper-seasonal fine dining and turned Copenhagen, Denmark, the city in which it is located, into one of the foremost dining destinations in the world. But almost three years after the beginning of the covid pandemic, restaurant workers are questioning the cost of this level of success.
Even Redzepi himself has admitted that the current fine-dining paradigm is breaking down: “It’s unsustainable. Financially and emotionally, as an employer and as a human being, it just doesn’t work,” he told the. “We have to completely rethink the industry. This is simply too hard, and we have to work in a different way.”
With his reputation, Redzepi undoubtedly has the ability to make a fortune, but he says that running Noma has not made him rich—the cost the specialty ingredients the restaurant has become famous for are so exorbitant that margins are reportedly still thin. So, who’s really benefitting from all of that unpaid and poorly paid labor? Anyone who can pay $500 minimum for a single meal: wealthy people.
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