The fourth-generation co-owners of Russ & Daughters, a New York appetizing institution, reflect on the intertwined importance of Jewish food and heritage.
You’re cousins and the fourth-generation co-owners of Russ & Daughters, a New York institution known for supplying the city’s finest lox, caviar, bagels, and bialys, among other Jewish staples. The original store, on East Houston Street, has been open since 1914. Now you have multiple locations, plus a cookbook and a scripted television series on the horizon. What does originality mean to you?For us, originality is staying true to who we are and what we do.
We’re not a deli; we’re an appetizing store. A deli sells meat. An appetizing store sells smoked and cured fish and dairy. Appetizing is born of the kosher tradition where you can’t eat dairy with meat. I want to put “not a deli” on a T-shirt.We hope that when you’re in Russ & Daughters and you’re eating our food, it’s a confluence of the past and the present in one moment. Some people have said that coming to Russ & Daughters is, for them, their synagogue.
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