For this meringue gem in our Holiday Cookie Chronicles, think: mint-chip ice cream with crunchy Oreo bits on top. But in delectable cookie form.
My parents will hate me for saying this, but I don’t have many memories of us cooking together. There are a few exceptions: squishing together the ingredients for my mother’s tomato soup meatballs the night before Thanksgiving; tearing apart the dough for Toll House break-and-bake chocolate chip cookies; and, when I got a bit older, carefully slicing my dad’s grilled herb-marinated pork loin—his one and only specialty—into even strips on Christmas day.
And in the living room, where my mom and I sit on the couch, wrapped up in blankets, watching our favorite sitcom and eating ice cream. Not just any ice cream: Breyers mint chocolate chip ice cream with a splash of milk over the top. I know, I know, I thought pouring milk over ice cream was weird at first, too. But the milk makes freezer-cold ice cream crystalize in places, so that it becomes crunchy and icy and very fun to chew on.
Always laughing in the same spots, and catching up on whatever had happened at school that day over commercial breaks, it was one of my favorite ways to spend time with my mom. Even though my dad and I have always been more similar , this time was exclusively for my mom and me. And those were the thirty minutes—or, if we caught back-to-back episodes, an hour—of the day I looked forward to most.
When I was asked to share a cookie for this big holiday feature, I was a bit stumped, because my family doesn’t really have a special recipe we make over and over. I was complaining about this fact to my friend Eric, when he had the most perfect idea: adapt these oreo meringues he loves to make, in memory of the ice-cream I loved so much.
Instead of passing this recipe down, I’m passing it up. So the next time I’m home, my mom and I can spend a little bit of time in the kitchen making this together—before we sit down to ice cream and TV, of course. —
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The Sugar Cookie Recipe That Won Contests, Changed LivesIt won a Food52 recipe contest back in 2010. Today, it's our most popular sugar cookie ever.
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Ammama's Semolina Butter Cookies Recipe on Food52In Singapore, where my mother grew up and where her extended family still lives, we do the holidays a little differently. Come Christmastime, banana trees and birds of paradise bushes in the yard are strung with twinkly lights. The weather is usually about 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and it thunderstorms at least once a day. Our family from around the island gathers at my Ammama’s house to share an Indo-Singaporean-Malay-Chinese feast: vats of richly spiced coconut curry with tender rounds of fried eggplant, accompanied by fragrant basmati rice; unthinkably large bowls of rojak, a refreshing cucumber-pineapple-tofu salad dressed with a sweet soy and chile–inflected peanut sauce; serving platters piled high with Teochew-style spring rolls, or popiah, and potato-stuffed curry puffs. The setup is cornucopian (and our appetites big enough to match) on this day, and other festive days of the year (like Deepavali, Hari Raya, Chinese New Year, and Singapore’s national day). The pattern is the same: We eat, then pause, then dive in again—and end up slouched over on the couch, holding our stomachs, wondering how we’d ever have room for dessert. We always manage, of course. Ammama’s dessert specialty, gulab jamun, is generally the center of the table, displayed in a large punch bowl filled with the golden-brown fried milk balls floating in a sugar syrup scented with saffron. But there are also eggless sponge cakes, or creamy cheesecakes that have been artfully decorated by my cousin Mira. And there is always an assortment of biscuits and Indian sweets: kaju barfi; bright-pink coconut candies with evaporated milk (bearing a consistency and flavor much like the inside of an Almond Joy); malted chocolate fudge made from Milo (a powdered drink mix much like Ovaltine); and the ever-present, universally beloved sugee biscuits, aka semolina butter cookies. (We loved the latter biscuits so much, we’d regularly send tins of them as gifts on festive occasions.) To make these cookies, m
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Salted Double-Chocolate Chewies Recipe on Food52I’m a big believer in a well-balanced holiday cookie tin. Growing up outside Chicago, my family’s contained a variety: something deeply buttery and shortbread-like; a bit of rich chocolate; one good, old-school spice cookie; a few heirloom recipes; and the classic chocolate chip. There was really something for everyone. This holiday institution holds such an importance in my life that when I was writing my newest cookbook, Midwest Made, filled with recipes and baking traditions from America’s heartland, I wanted the chapter on winter holidays to reflect my family’s cookie tin, with a little taste to satisfy all kinds of cookie lovers. I have two aunts who were really young when I was growing up—13 and 14 years old when I was born—who were more like my babysitters. We’d regularly make recipes from their Home Economics classes and include them in our cookie tin, among these the mysteriously named Forgotten Cookies—meringue cookies with nuts and chocolate chips—and the traditional Toll House. There was also a chocolate cookie in this group. It wasn’t as popular as the Toll House recipe, so we didn’t make it that often, but it was something I always loved: an cocoa-heavy, intensely chocolatey cookie, reminiscent of the outside of an Oreo, and dotted with Nestle morsels. Growing up, I couldn’t always say, “This is the cookie I want to make”—I just went with whatever my aunts wanted to make. And so the Toll House cookie kept making its way into the tin, and my beloved chocolate cookie was seldom around. That changed when I first got married, just about 17 years ago. I was looking to start a holiday baking tradition for our new little family. I’m a crunchy cookie person, and my husband is a soft and chewy cookie lover. But if the flavor is huge, I can be swayed. So I wanted to find a way to combine the two, creating something incredible chocolatey and special, yet easy to put together, reminiscent of the cocoa cookies from holidays so long ago. And that’s how these Salte
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Maman's Cheese Soufflé From Jacques Pépin Recipe on Food52If the intimidation of making a soufflé has kept you away, it's time to change that: This recipe is the easiest soufflé you'll meet. This unusual recipe from Jacques Pepin's maman (which just means 'mom' in French) is one you might have heard of—it's made the rounds for decades, and its genius is all thanks to a simple miscommunication. Unlike traditional French soufflés that call for separating the eggs, adding the yolks to the white sauce, beating the egg whites till stiff, and gently folding them in, this recipe has you beat the eggs straight into the sauce. When Jacques' mother was newly married at seventeen, no one told her the eggs needed to be separated—and it worked! The results are slightly less airy, but some might argue they're even more delicious. The brilliance of this move, in addition to ease, is that it means you can make the whole thing well ahead of time. Let the mixture hang out at room temperature for a couple hours, or in the fridge for a day. When you're ready to bake, heat your oven and go. As mentioned in The Washington Post, this recipe is also built to adapt. Use Gruyère, cheddar, or other cheeses. Switch up chives for another herb. Or make the soufflés in individual ramekins and customize the toppings. As Pépin's daughter Claudine writes, “We usually serve it as a first course, but we love it for brunch and meatless dinners as well.” Jacques Pepin's maman's cheese soufflé is simple and comforting enough for a weeknight meal, yet impressive enough for a dinner party or holiday feast. Recipe slightly adapted from The Apprentice: My Life in the Kitchen (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, May 2003).
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Rice-Milk Rice Pudding Recipe on Food52Truly great rice pudding is as creamy as can be, which is why so many recipes turn to whole milk, half-and-half, or heavy cream. Non-dairy versions often use coconut milk or cream—but this recipe takes another route: homemade rice milk. If this sounds fussy to you, it’s anything but. Just add raw rice to a blender, pulse it until floury, pour hot water on top, and wait. Blending this mixture with brown sugar (which has a caramelier flavor than its granulated counterpart) yields the dreamiest liquid for the creamiest rice pudding. As the rice milk cooks with cooked rice (using cooked rice gives you more control and flexibility, compared to cooking raw rice in a creamy liquid), the starchy rice milk thickens in a matter of minutes. A few notes about the ingredients: You can use short- or medium-grain rice, but I liked long-grain best. The decision to use brown rice isn’t about nutrition (though the fact that it’s a whole grain is a nice bonus)—it’s about flavor. Since one of the two ingredients in this rice pudding is rice, using a less processed variety goes a long way in adding complex, nutty flavor. And if you already have leftover rice in the fridge, great. Instead of cooking the rice from scratch, as directed below in step one, just swap in 2 cups cooked rice. When it comes to toppings, you could skip them altogether, or you could go wild: golden raisins, dried dates, fresh citrus, roasted walnuts, salted pistachios, ground cinnamon, honey, maple syrup, oh, I could go on forever.
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