Lab2022’s Neil Leonard has been collecting pieces from Gucci’s sexiest era for 30 years. “I just felt something for them; they spoke to me,” he says.
Nearly 30 years on, the collector has thousands of Ford-era Gucci pieces in his remarkable archive, as well as a selection of his YSL designs, too. His favourite collections include Ford’s famous, which featured the likes of Amber Valletta, Shalom Harlow and Kate Moss in half-unbuttoned silk shirts and low-slung velvet trousers, and truly put the designer on the map. “It was the show of the season,” Leonard says.
Leonard is also a fan of Ford’s ’96 and ’97 collections – which included the deep red velvet suit famously worn by Gwyneth Paltrow, and the sleek white dress Bella Hadid plucked from the archive to wear inback in May . “I’m a minimalist,” the collector explains. “This was the era I grew up in: the Halston era. Tom has talked many times about being influenced by Halston.”
The current Ford-era Gucci revival, though, can perhaps be attributed to a penchant for maximalism – with the designer’s python-covered spring/summer 2000 collection proving particularly popular. “I know right now, based on Instagram, that people are into things that are far out there; that are over the top,” he says. “We get messages from people who love the pieces that are more flamboyant and wild.
For Leonard though, it’s all about preserving pieces of fashion history. “I want it to be an archive [where I can] show the work,” he says. “The reason that I sell a small number of pieces is basically just for the sustainability [of the archive] – to be able to properly care for it. It’s not a cheap proposition to maintain a large archive. I joke with my friends that I take care of the pieces as if they were my children.
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