At Kumiko and Kikko in Chicago, the chef de cuisine’s omakase is front and center
Russell’s agedashi tofu with puffed wheatberry, five spice, and citrus laceFamily is paramount to Russell’s success. She grew up in Springfield, Ohio in a large, tightly knit family with her parents and four sisters. “I had the best childhood ever. My parents worked really hard for us to be able to go on vacation,” Russell says. “Even though we were still kind of struggling, they didn’t let us know that.” After high school, she moved to Chicago to attend culinary school.
It was at the two-Michelin-starred Oriole where Russell reunited with Sandoval, taking the only available position — back server. Working front-of-the-house was a bold move for Russell, who had always called the kitchen home. But taking the new role was more of a personal challenge than anything else, an attempt to find a remedy for the anxiousness she felt when talking to new people. Nearly a year later, Russell transitioned back to the kitchen as Oriole’s sous chef, then chef de cuisine.
Chicago is having a love affair with omakase restaurants. Since 2018, a handful have opened across the city, three of which received a Michelin star. Like Kumiko and Kikko, many of these stunners are located in West Loop, a neighborhood that was once home to the iconic Harpo Studios beginning in the late ’80s. It was Oprah who blazed a trail for some of the world’s best restaurateurs and chefs to set up shop in West Loop, making it the dining epicenter it is today.
At Kumiko, diners can roam free with à la carte small bites like shio koji-aged kampachi nigiri topped with white sturgeon caviar; sweetbread katsu; and confit short ribwith sushi rice, black garlic xo sauce, and enoki. And at Kikko, diners smartly place themselves in the hands of the chef. A standout dish on the tasting menu is Russell’s house-made agedashi tofu served in a bowl with tofu puree, truffle, puffed wheat berries, and five-spice.
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