Mediterranean classics are just that at this Sherman Oaks restaurant

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Mediterranean classics are just that at this Sherman Oaks restaurant
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Mizlala has a loyal following, for lots of delicious reasons, says food critic Merrill Shindler.

There are three branches of Mizlala, all of them good, and all of them featuring a creative menu of Mediterranean classics, says restaurant critic Merrill Shindler. — an understated and superb Middle Eastern restaurant — there was only one location, on Sepulveda in Sherman Oaks, just as the 405 settles down for a rarely easy drive across the Valley.

The lamb meatballs, kofta, are paired with a serving of must-try hummus at Mizlala in Sherman Oaks. There are three branches of Mizlala, all of them good, and all of them featuring a creative menu of Mediterranean classics, says restaurant critic Merrill Shindler.

It’s not a big space; show up without a reservation, and about all you can hope for is a seat at the counter that faces the kitchen. Which is a good place to sit, if you want to watch the cooks assembling a multitude of ingredients into dishes that are unexpectedly elegant. This is a down-home cuisine, raised to properly served proportions. It can be a bit of cognitive dissonance.

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