Here, the photographer, filmmaker and ShowStudio founder talks freely about fashion and film.
LONDON — The COVID-19 crisis has forced fashion into some uncomfortable places, namely online or into unfamiliar, digital formats: With the traditional roster of physical shows canceled or postponed in all the major cities, brands, designers and fashion organizations are grappling with the challenge of how to telegraph their messages to the media, the trade — and the public.
WWD: Your first runway film was Alexander McQueen’s “Plato’s Atlantis” show in 2009. Thanks to Lady Gaga’s song at the end — and her formidable Twitter following — you broke the Internet. How did that change fashion’s attitude toward film? I was being slightly provocative when I say photography died, but that’s not the medium we use anymore. If we acknowledge where we are with image making now, it’s a really exciting new medium that takes in things like virtual reality, augmented reality, artificial intelligence, robotics, all these things are part of image-making. They’re not part of photography. Once you’re outside the parameters [of photography], working with artificial intelligence or 3-D scanning, you’re creating imagery.
Fashion managed to put itself in the bubble: You have the depictions of people like Cruella de Vil as these haughty women, reinforced by the likes of Diana Vreeland looking down on people with an “I know, and you don’t” attitude. That haughtiness became a mold for the fashion editor. But it’s very, very against what’s happening now.
N.K.: There are a lot of young designers who I feel are unfairly pressurized into doing a catwalk show to get the support of the British Fashion Council. These foundations and organizations that look after fashion have been complicit in forcing young designers to spend an awful lot of money unnecessarily on a catwalk presentation. The industry is now suffering, like any other industry, from the massive changes that have been forced upon it.
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