Standout shows were almost all from creative, provocative female designers.
Chopova Lowena
, the kilt-crazy brand from Laura Lowena and Emma Chopova, which pivoted from presentation to show. As they told me in an interview last week, their clothes already emphasize movement, even in a lookbook setting, but the runway debut gave them a chance to emphasize their shapes and finishings, and make them perhaps even more grandiose. Their clothes are complicated and luxurious, but they have a grounded power to them.
One thing the women of London share: they have a great idea and are able to build a whole world around it. Other brands struggle with this . But look at all that Molly Goddard has done with just a tulle dress . Her clothes have evolved; she was thinking this season about red carpet dressing pre-internet along with the weird, morphed silhouettes of Charles James.
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