Pizza Wine is one of some nine new wines Middle Brow partners Pete Ternes, Bryan Grohnke, and Polly Nevins will release this year, now that they’re officially licensed to make, sell, and distribute it from Bungalow by Middle Brow Beers. | ✍️ MikeSula
Middle Brow’s Pizza Wine has the dark ruby-red color of a Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, like something you’d want to drink with a thick porterhouse: jammy, tannic, boozy.
Along with brewer Ed Brady, they started experimenting with what the wine world amorphously labels “natural wine” in early 2019, not long after they abandoned their original goal of setting up permanent residence on a self-sustaining farm, instead opening Bungalow in a former camera shop in Logan Square.
Pizza Wine and some of the other new wines Middle Brow will release this year. Credit: Jeff Marini for“Natural wine” in the modern sense is a poorly defined concept, but it’s nothing new. People have been making wine with nothing but indigenous yeast and grape juice for thousands of years. A more illustrative term is low-intervention wine, ideally using grapes farmed with no pesticides and herbicides.
A handful of low-intervention wines from other winemakers have always been on the menu at Bungalow, but Ternes and Grohnke’s first foray into making their own resulted in not a wine, but a beer. In 2019, just ahead of the third annual Third Coast Soif, the local festival celebrating low-intervention wine, beer, and cider, the partners got ahold of some rosé from Sonoma County winemaker Evan Lewandowski, which they blended with their own Belgian-farmhouse-style grisette Miner.
The next year they’d ordered 300 gallons of cabernet rosé from Richmond, California, winemaker Les Lunes and learned a hard lesson. Because they were using some of their brewing tanks to ferment, they didn’t have a tight control over oxygen permeating into the juice, and it developed the mysterious and dreaded mousiness, a flaw common in natural wines that results in a repellent off taste that can’t be detected on the nose.
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