In Paris, a city synonymous with dining out and drinking, a new lockdown to prevent the spread of the novel coronavirus is disrupting the restaurant industry — and threatening the social fabric
and the pension reform strikes at the end of 2019. So as the reality of the virus descended, locals wondered what to do: Was it right to let restaurants and bars languish?
In the hours following Prime Minister Edouard Philippe’s announcement on Saturday, March 14, that all nonessential establishments—everything except for pharmacies, banks, supermarkets, tobacco shops, and bakeries—would close until further notice, many Parisians raced out for a final pre-confinement hurrah. “One last drink!” I heard passersby yell on my street as they ventured to any number of densely packed bars and all-day cafés.
The first day under the new orders was only vaguely less buzzy than most Sundays: The brunch and coffee shop crowds had vanished, but weekly shoppers still swarmed open-air markets with little apparent concern for gathering in tight quarters. Bakeries, essential as they are to Parisian life, did brisk business. The most cautious of them allowed only a handful of people to enter at a time.
But hints of the shutdown’s potentially catastrophic impact on the food industry could be seen on Instagram, where restaurants announced they were organizing pickups for leftover stock and ingredients. The abrupt closures gave chefs and owners little time to prepare for next steps: In his Instagram stories, Nicolas Alary ofdescribed feeling torn between avoiding food waste and wanting to protect clients and staff from congregating outside his restaurant.
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