From 2013: How an immigrant from Turkey turned Greek yogurt into an American snack food.
In 1996, Hamdi Ulukaya, a twenty-five-year-old student from Turkey, was attending language school in Troy, New York. He had left home for America two years earlier. One day, his father called and announced plans to visit. In anticipation, Ulukaya shopped for the foods that his father customarily ate for breakfast: bread, olives, and feta cheese. But the only cheese that Ulukaya could find in the local supermarket was flavorless.
In 2005, Ulukaya received a piece of junk mail, from a local real-estate company, advertising the sale of a yogurt-and-cheese factory that had closed down. He went to see it. The factory, which was built in 1920 and had been occupied most recently by Kraft Foods, was on a country road in New Berlin, in central New York, flanked by a biker bar on one side and a cemetery on the other.
Yogurt is made by adding live cultures to fresh milk that has been heated, then permitting the cultures to ferment until the mixture thickens and becomes tangy. Like cheese, yogurt is a primitive processed food, a way of preserving milk beyond its natural life span. Long part of European, Middle Eastern, and Indian cuisine, it is relatively new to the American diet. In 1922, Bertha M.
Frozen yogurt, which promises an elusive combination of healthfulness and indulgence, follows a familiar pattern. The nineteen-eighties saw an enthusiasm for cholesterol-reducing oat bran, delivered in the form of giant chocolate-chip muffins; in the nineteen-nineties, dieters turned to low-fat regimens, and manufacturers responded by producing treats like SnackWells cookies, which compensated for the absence of fat with extra sugar.
I visited New Berlin in August, and was shown around the factory by Dave Christensen, a Chobani executive. Inside the chilled, hangar-like warehouse, cases of yogurt destined for the shelves of Costco were being packed in special branded boxes. In the vast packaging room, Chobani’s familiar brightly colored sleeves were being wrapped around filled plastic cups of yogurt, at a rate of thirty thousand cups an hour.
In the kitchen, he made espresso, fumbling slightly with the machine, as if he had rarely operated it. After pizza was delivered, from a local restaurant, he poured a glass of Gavi for me and offered me slices of his preferred feta cheese, which was imported from Turkey and is made from sheep’s milk. Discreetly placed speakers played music that was quite possibly Turkish, or Greek. On the dining table was a pile of books: Rumi, Neruda, Lorca. “I’m a big Rumi guy,” he told me.
After the summit, Cuomo moved to deregulate the state’s oversight of dairy farms with between two hundred and three hundred head of cattle. In July, the state was sued by Riverkeeper, the environmental group, which asserts that deregulation will harm New York’s water supply.
Last August, I went with my family to Greece for the first time, and before I went I sought the advice of Diane Kochilas, the author of “The Country Cooking of Greece,” about how to experience yogurt as the Greeks eat it. Without hesitation, Kochilas told me that the best yogurt she had ever tasted came from the dairy of a small producer outside the town of Argos, in the Peloponnese.
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