Tourists may skip Italy's beaches and seaside towns for less-crowded forests and mountains
, the boss of a waterfront boat-hire business, surveys the few hundred people, many of them expensively dressed, ambling in the sun or lounging at tables outside Portofino’s bars and restaurants. “It feels as if we’ve gone back in time, to the 1960s,” he says.
Rarely since then can Portofino, an elegant resort on the Italian riviera, have been as sparsely peopled on a Saturday afternoon: when the very rich moved on to more exotic locations, the day-trippers moved in. Portofino may now be reliving itsyears, but it is doing so with hand gel and surgical masks at the ready. “Stand here” signs are sprayed on the quayside at socially distanced intervals near where the ferries dock.
The central government hopes to bribe Italians into taking “staycations” with a discount of up to €500 off their hotel bills. Aldo Werdin, the local head of the hoteliers’ association, says his members wanted a system like the one that lets tourists from outside theon their purchases. It was to have been for everyone. But Italy’s left-populist government decided to limit it to Italian residents with household incomes of under €40,000 a year.
“See that stretch of quayside over there?” asks Mr Mussini in Portofino. “That’s for the private yachts.” It is empty. A few are expected later in June. But not one cruise ship has yet reserved a berth this summer. A few French tourists have appeared in Portofino since Italy opened its borders on June 3rd. But Germans will not be able to come to Italy easily by car until the Swiss and Austrians open their frontiers, on June 15th and 16th respectively.
That will deal a crushing blow to its many self-employed tourist guides who, on June 9th, demonstrated in several cities. They received two government payments of €600 each for March and April, but many were excluded from a third in May. They assume they will not work again before next March. They are seeking state support until then. But so are a lot of others.
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