Mary Cleary is a writer based in London and New York. Previously beauty & grooming editor at Wallpaper*, she is now a contributing editor, alongside writing for various publications on all aspects of culture.
A Michelin-starred restaurant connotes many things: exceptional food, acclaimed chefs, a rarefied atmosphere, elite guests, glamour, and prestige. Arkestra, the Istanbul restaurant from the young Turkish-born, French-trained chef Cenk Debensason and his partner in life and business Debora Ipekel, has all these qualities, but with an added element few such restaurants share: fun.
Stand-out examples include the tuna sashimi – the most ordered dish on the menu – which combines delicate tuna slices with sushi rice ice cream and crunchy puffed rice for an intriguing texture combination that heightens the freshness of the tuna and its ginger ponzu vinaigrette. Meanwhile, the katsu sando is a perfect strip of succulent steak sandwiched between two buttery pieces of bread with a sweet and savoury sauce.
‘We wanted Ritmo to have an entirely different identity to everything else on offer at Arkestra,’ says Debensason about the new space. ‘Working with Tayfun to create such an original space also influenced the plates we’re serving – we want guests to feel like Ritmo is their second home but that there will always be an element of surprise when they drop by.’
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