Over chile verde and chicken burritos, La Doña chatted with her tias about growing up in the East Bay during the late 1960s, the perfect dining partners for this Oakland-ass spot.
Editor’s note: In this monthly column, San Francisco singer and artist La Doña will celebrate the city’s vibrant Mexican food scene by reviewing a different burrito each month from taquerias across the Bay Area. You can find a Spanish language version of the storyOn Cinco de Mayo, I pulled up to Taqueria La Mejor with two of my lifelong, lesbian, art-culture icons, my tias, Irene Perez and Catalina Govea.
A mosaic title sign dedicated to Warriors player Juan Toscano-Anderson on the wall at Taqueria La Mejor in Oakland, Calif. on May 5, 2022. The taqueria's owner, Maria Pardo, is the grandmother of Toscano-Anderson.Taqueria La Mejor Maria Pardo poses with photographs of her grandchild, Warriors player Juan Toscano-Anderson, in Oakland, Calif. on May 5, 2022.Owner Maria Pardo is the grandmother of Warriors player Juan Toscano-Anderson.
Over the past seven decades in Oakland, they have lived through hella eras, movements and crises. Over chile verde and chicken burritos, Irene described ditching school to attend the anti-Vietnam War demonstrations downtown in the late '60s, and Cata told me about what it was like working the AIDS unit as a nurse before anyone knew where the disease originated from, how it was transmitted and of the devastation it would wreak.
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