'People say that once you have the Arctic in your system, it will always be calling you,' writes Explorer and photographer Evgenia Arbugaeva
On a quiet and windless day, Vyacheslav Korotki drifts alone in his handmade boat on a narrow bay of the Barents Sea near the Khodovarikha Meteorological Station. He has spent most of his life in remote Arctic stations and says he loves this particular area he’s called home for two decades.Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.: Korotki walks toward a lighthouse that went out of service over 10 years ago.
One day I felt sad, the polar night causing my thoughts to run in chaotic directions. I came to Korotki with a cup of tea and asked how he could live here, alone, every day the same. He told me: “You have too many expectations, and I guess it’s normal. But every day is not the same here. Look, today you saw the bright aurora borealis and a very rare phenomenon of thin ice covering the sea.
One month I lived with a young couple, Evgenia Kostikova and Ivan Sivkov, who were collecting meteorological data at another frozen edge of Russia. Kostikova had asked her beloved Sivkov to join her up north after their first year together in a Siberian city. They monitored the weather, chopped wood, cooked, tended the lighthouse, and looked after each other. For medical help they relied only on a distant helicopter, but it could be delayed for weeks in rough weather.
Perhaps partly because of their isolation, the 300 Chukchi in the village of Enurmino have kept their traditions, living off the land and sea as their ancestors did, hewing to the same myths and legends passed through the generations. It is an honor to be a hunter, and the villagers follow federal and international quotas as they hunt for walrus and whale to sustain their community through the long winters.
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