With the best tomatoes of the season, make easy fresh or dried pasta dishes served with a bright fennel salad and the perfect dessert, panna cotta. To preserve tomatoes the Italian way, try Paul Bertolli's conserva.
. On a trip earlier this month to Italy, the tomatoes were so sweet and came straight from the garden, the clams were delivered from the Livorno seaside market, and we rolled our own fresh pasta. Back in L.A., tomatoes are in full swing, and this week I ate the juiciest
of the season so far — on toast with Ferrarini butter, made with cream from the same cows whose milk produces Parmigiano Reggiano . Plus,. I’m Betty Hallock, deputy Food editor, filling in for cooking columnist Ben Mims., a coastal region along the Tyrrhenian Sea in southwestern Tuscany known for itspappardelle
, extra-wide and with eggs in the dough. I was lucky to stay among the rolling hills of olive trees, umbrella pine groves and fields of sunflowers at the invitation of a friend celebrating her birthday. We were in Italian cowboy country, the nearest town miles away, so every meal was cooked at home. Fresh pasta makes summery sense when the tomatoes growing on the farm next door are ripe and juicy or the seafood comes from, the market in the Tuscan port town of Livorno — one of the largest historic markets in Europe — selling clams, cuttlefish, sea bass, octopus, prawns and some of the best chicken in Italy too, the yellow-skinnedwhole branzinoDatterini tomatoes and fresh basil from the gardens at Orto San Frediano, a culinary school on the left bank of the Arno River in Florence.
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