In the Eastern Aegean, this large island has a curious history and family-run hotels and guest houses with rooms for less than £60 a night
“Just follow the music”, Rania, my guide, had said. We stumbled along the forest path in the pitch-black. It felt like we were going in circles. The sound of folk violins and strumming seemed to be getting quieter. Had we gone wrong?
A tiny Orthodox church was stooped underneath the pines. In front, a seven-person band meddled out folk tunes as people hopped and twisted slowly then faster and faster in concentric circles. They had already been playing for hours and would continue until the sun rose the next day.festival that has taken place on various saints’ feast days for hundreds of years.
As we zipped along the craggy roads to Armenistis, Rania explained how Ikaria had, for centuries, been cut off from the rest of the world by its rough tides, lack of natural ports and attacks by the pirates that inhabited the neighbouring island of Fourni. Still today, she said, it receives far fewer visitors than better-known islands.
Entry to the panigiri is also free and the food and wine are cheap . Any profits are spent on necessary works in the host village, such as repairing roads or signs.
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