III Mas gives an Armenian twist to Texas barbecue

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III Mas gives an Armenian twist to Texas barbecue
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At III Mas BBQ, 24-year-old chef Arthur Grigoryan unites the smoked meats of the U.S.

When a Mexican American married a man of Armenian descent, meals became an international feast.

Currently a pop-up, III Mas dinners take place monthly in his family’s Sherman Oaks backyard, where a big black smoker abuts the bleached balustrade of a grand mansion. Guests sit before gold-trimmed plates at the side of a swimming pool bar as James Brown sings, shouts and squeals over the sound system.

A selection of mezze with pita arrives first. There’s silky hummus with marinated chickpeas and a bowl of violet-dyedNext comes fennel-cucumber tzatziki slaw and airy falafel fried in coriander seed-infused oil, true to his Armenian-Egyptian great-grandmother’s recipe.III Mas chef Arthur Grigoryan prepares his basturma brisket.-spiced lamb shoulder smoked for 16 hours and shredded like pulled pork.

A thick sauce of pomegranate and Calabrian chiles serves as a tart, spicy substitute for tomato-y barbecue sauce, while mango

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