In the early days of Kelewele, owner Rachel Laryea was known for her plantain ice cream, decadent brownies, and extra-soft chocolate chip cookies.
On a rainy Saturday afternoon, Brooklyn’s DeKalb Market Hall is bustling with people seeking lunch. There are croissants, hummus, doner kebabs—near endless possibilities. But I’m on the hunt for something very specific. And suddenly, there it is: a mini tropical oasis, centered around a larger-than-life image of ripe yellow plantains. Behind the counter, a petite Black woman with long brunette locs scoops red red from an Instant Pot onto whole roasted plantains.
By spring 2020, Laryea knew the festival circuit was untenable. “Oftentimes, we were selling out really quickly, within two or three hours,” she says. “There's only so much that I could bake or make out of my Brooklyn apartment kitchen.” Demand was growing and Laryea, a double Ph.D. candidate at Yale University, was already stretched thin. It was time to scale up. Laryea got to work forming an advisory board and enrolled in small business accelerators.
Kelewele is the first plantain dish Laryea remembers eating as a kid. With candy forbidden at home, Laryea and her sweet tooth eagerly anticipated the days when mom pulled out her big cast-iron pot. “I was obsessed because kelewele was this treat that I would get only once in a while,” she says, recalling how she’d sneak out of bed and into the fridge for an extra helping, only to be caught red-handed by her mom.
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