'Holding the egg tart in my hand—one that I had made from start to finish—felt pretty darn empowering.'
, how she felt about egg tarts. “They’re just so iconic,” she tells me. “If you go to dim sum—or even if you go to a Chinese bakery—[the experience is] almost incomplete if you don’t get one.” San Francisco pastry chef Melissa Chou, of, agrees. “It’s a very iconic Chinese dessert for me,” Chou says. “It’s the thing I always keep going back to.”
Despite the Hong Kong egg tart’s popularity, it’s not something often attempted at home. The labor involved in making properly layered Chinese puff pastry is daunting and perhaps doesn’t seem worthwhile when the tart is so easily purchased at a local Chinese bakery. Over the phone Chou tells me, “I would say it’s never occurred to me to make them myself.” Chou chuckles. “It’s just one of those things.
To make French-style puff pastry, you encase a cold slab of butter between layers of dough, then fold and roll it over and over again until you have thin, alternating layers of butter and dough. With Chinese puff pastry, you start with two separate doughs: one made with flour, water, and eggs, and another that includes lard or shortening. The two doughs are chilled, stacked on top of one another, and folded and rolled—as you would French puff pastry—to achieve thin layers.
It’s extremely important to keep the dough as cold as possible and to work quickly. Because lard and shortening are extraordinarily soft fats even when cold, Chinese puff pastry is difficult to handle and can be challenging even for skilled chefs. In his cookbook, the Michelin-starred chef Andrew Wong writes, “For 20-odd years I completely took for granted the difficulty involved in making the perfect custard tart.
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