Tory Burch, FFORME, and more New York designers find strength in making the imperfect perfect again
Aside from Mrs. Prada, it’s been a minute since we’ve had a woman designer or creative director cultivate a collective sense of dress. This season, everyone is on pins and needles waiting for the return of Phoebe Philo, who is set to launch what many are anticipating will be the second coming of Christ–sorry, I mean old Céline. Then there’s Jenna Lyons, who, during her tenure as Creative Director of J.
Lyons is still an arbiter of taste but is also currently in her Bravolebrity era, and with the mysterious Philo launch still in soon-to-drop mode, there’s lots of space open for a new woman to tell us how to curate our wardrobes for everyday life. The beauty of both Lyons and Philo was that, despite being at opposite ends of the price point and customer spectrums, their styling and their designs made it okay to be a little bit relaxed.
When the collection came down the runway last night, it cemented the fact that Burch is evolving in the exact right direction, one that is giving us that feminine style north star we’ve been without for some time. The clothes, worn by a range of body types, were meant to evoke a sense of freedom and effortlessness.
She chose smart, wearable fabrics for ultra-stylish garments, like nylon taffeta and jersey and stretch crepe. Her boxy-but-not-too-boxy suiting was nice, too, especially for women of a certain age who likely won’t buy into a draped goddess mini dress . Details have also become an important component of Burch’s new age: last season she gave us broken logos on sharp carryalls and this season, a clutch molded ergonomically to fit snuggly against your hip as you carry it.
But Burch is intriguing because she’s moving the needle, as are a few other brands that have showed during the last couple of days. Paul Helbers’s FFORME is a shining example of a new kind of effortless chic, with his minimalist, flowing oversized tunic tanks and slouchy trousers. Rachel Scott of Diotima is on the same wavelength too, offering up handcrafted crochet tops and skirts, some embellished with soft crystals, that work oh so well with a plain Jane tapered pant or pleated A-line skirt.
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