Dispatches on the global state of eating from writers on the ground
There is currently no lockdown at all here in Tokyo. It’s surreal how bars and restaurants are still open for business. Right now people are being encouraged to stagger commuting times; to work from home if possible; and to wash our hands. Nothing is being even talked about yet. But with tourism from abroad dwindling to 10-year lows and far fewer people eating out, many/most restaurants are hurting. Basically we’re all waiting for the situation to explode just as it has elsewhere.
India hasn’t had a vast breakthrough of the virus yet, but we also have the lowest number of tests per person. The mandate from the Delhi government is to stay at home, but predictably there has been no state provision to take care of people. Few people can take an unpaid leave of absence, so they have to decide between risking getting sick or their jobs. Indian society works in such community-dependent ways that for many it doesn’t even seem like an option.
In general, the food scene in the country has never been more so prominent, allowing chefs to reinvigorate self-esteem in local, national flavors and ingredients. Chefs and famous winemakers are going online to keep the ball rolling, with Instagram Live panels about wine and interviews about industry happenings on Facebook, but this crisis may put the plane back on the ground for Portuguese gastronomy. It will probably take a lot of time for it to take off again.
The virus has hit New Zealand a little later than many countries, but already the borders have been locked down and indoor gatherings of over 100 people have been banned, which includes restaurants and bars. Generally restaurants are open as normal, though diners do seem to be practicing social distancing and are eating out less. Some restaurants have started to offer delivery and pick-up services.
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