How Biba’s make-up and cosmetics line started a beauty revolution

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How Biba’s make-up and cosmetics line started a beauty revolution
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Hannah Tindle is Beauty & Grooming Editor at Wallpaper*. With ten years of experience working for media titles and brands across the luxury and culture sectors, she brings a breadth of knowledge to the magazine’s beauty vertical, which closely intersects with fashion, art, design, and technology.

Biba’s make-up and cosmetics line, launched in 1970, was pioneering in every sense of the word. Alongside the likes of Mary Quant, another iconoclastic fashion label emblematic of the late 1960s and early 1970s subculture, it revolutionised how make-up was designed, marketed, and worn, speaking to a new generation pushing against mainstream conventions.

‘By the time we had opened our biggest store on Kensington Church Street, we had the counters for our perfumes and things. And Fitz said to me: “Well, where are the cosmetics?” So we did some research and found this big factory in East Grinstead, just outside of London, that made all the products for Revlon. And we went to see what we could do with them. On our first meeting, we faced this huge table with about 20 businessmen sitting around it.

‘We had a big party to open the cosmetics line, and all the girls were dressed and made up in Biba make-up and clothes, head-to-toe,’ says Hulanicki, recalling the Kensington tea dance that introduced the make-up line to the world. ‘We all got into this taxi to head over to the venue, and I wish I’d taken a picture of the driver’s face. He looked horrified! He didn’t know what to do with himself.’‘It’s fascinating to watch how the make-up and cosmetics industry is today,’ concludes Hulanicki.

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