Sample a spoonful of Tsar Nicoulai caviar at San Francisco’s Ferry Building or from Whole Foods and you might be surprised that the salty, buttery caviar that’s melting in your mouth isn’t from Rus…
Sample a spoonful of Tsar Nicoulai caviar at the Caviar Cafe at the Ferry Building Marketplace or a high-end San Francisco restaurant such as Gary Danko or Aphotic, and you might be surprised that the salty, buttery beads melting in your mouth aren’t from Russia or anywhere near the Caspian Sea.
But these California purveyors are gradually and conscientiously transforming the caviar industry, while sparing the vulnerable wild sturgeon population that swims in nearby rivers. So how did this Russian-sounding caviar producer end up here? Tsar Nicoulai was actually born in the USA, a stroke of marketing brilliance by a pair of Swedish San Franciscans after they discovered the Cali-forward branding for their fledgling caviar company, California Sunshine, Inc., wasn’t getting anywhere.
At the hatchery, now owned by Ali and Marai Bolourchi, thousands of baby sturgeon or “fingerlings” swim in tanks sheltered not just from the sun, but from hawks who might see a tank of tasty baby fish as the perfect venue for a feeding frenzy. Roughly a dozen staffers live on-site to care for the sturgeon at every level of development. It’s a task assisted by tank technology which sends out smartphone alerts if oxygen levels or temperatures start to change.
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