After a seven-year delay, the Venice Beach import Gjelina is finally open. It's already Manhattan’s hottest lunch, writes asytsma
A look down into Gjelina’s ground-floor kitchen.Photo: Allegra Lorenzotti, I figured it would be no big deal. It was one o’clock in the afternoon on a Wednesday, not exactly a busy hour for most restaurants. Then I saw the line of customers snaking out the door and realized I’d underestimated the anticipation that had been building up for the better part of a decade.first revealed
that Gjelina — the seminal SoCal destination for high-fashion veggies and produce-topped pizzas — would expand eastward with a Noho branch at 45 Bond Street. Plenty has changed in the ensuing years, both in the obvious ways and with the behind-the-scenes team at the restaurant . For a while, the enterprise seemed destined to join the list of ambitious and appealing projects that nevertheless fizzled out before getting off the ground.
Since the restaurant has been in development so long, you’d think the owners would press to get the word out. Instead, reservations are not yet being accepted, a rep politely declined to answer any questions “until the spring,” and the entire Bond Street entrance is obscured by an unmarked wood-framed vestibule that is seemingly still under construction.
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