‘Gentefied’ Creators Marvin Lemus and Linda Yvette Chávez on Mexican Food as Fulcrum

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‘Gentefied’ Creators Marvin Lemus and Linda Yvette Chávez on Mexican Food as Fulcrum
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In the hit Netflix show, a family-owned taqueria in LA’s gentrifying Boyle Heights becomes a site of navigating the American Dream

The bilingual Netflix comedy-drama series, which premiered February 21, follows the Morales family, owners of taqueria Mama Fina’s Tacos in the gentrifying Boyle Heights neighborhood of. The mostly Latinx cast features immigrant patriarch Casimiro “Pop” Morales and his four grandchildren, who all struggle with living up to the American dream while battling the social politics of their shifting community.

Akin to a lot of family-owned businesses today, the Morales’s have a difficult time paying the escalating rent and must learn to adapt to change or risk closure. Though Mama Fina’s is fictional, it was partially filmed at Boyle staple La Ronda Restaurant and based on restaurants Chavez and Lemus dined at growing up.

“Chris is bringing in a very Americanized way of doing things that can feel like such a threat to our way of being, because we’re coming to this country where we’re already being told that we’re not enough and that we’re bad guys [Note: Episode 3 is named “Bad Hombres”] and our culture is less than,” Chavez said. In one scene, Pop takes Chris’s taco and seasons it the way his loyal customers would like it.

,” Chavez said. “I think there’s power in that.” The higher-priced artisanal menu also comments on how people sometimes assume Mexican food should always be cheap. “For a long time I came from that space of ‘I’m not going to pay more than $1 for a taco,’” Lemus said — but that mentality taps into how Mexican culture can be denigrated.

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