Giuliano Calza put a fantasy, fetishy spin on the gothic Dracula tale.
So he put his fantasy, fetish-y spin on the gothic tale and its costumes by the late great Eiko Ishioka, who won an Oscar for the film.
Her vision dazzled, including a gold-leaf kabuki-style Dracula cape inspired by Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss” that’s on display at the Academy Museum in Los Angeles. Calza’s vamp camp less so, but it was still some fun. He took Mina’s Victorian bustles, Lucy’s seductive off-the-shoulder silhouettes and Dracula’s cape, cummerbund and waistcoat into plasticky cosplay territory.
Perhaps he was channeling the English seaside village of Whitby that figures into the story into the exaggerated storybook sweater dress, pullover and balaclava. The genius of Margiela — and Nick Cave — certainly came to mind seeing the hairy, scary pink monster suit come down the runway. And spidery knit sets, sheer catsuits and embellished bodysuits for all genders, had a certain kitschy eroticism.
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