Gael Greene was the first big-city critic to take her eyes off the tedious procession of soufflés and canapés that crossed her plates to report on restaurants the way New Yorkers see them: as an extension of social status and of the city’s culture at large
for four decades beginning in 1968 , became famous, during the course of her long and influential career, for many things. She was famous for her elaborate hat collection, which she used as both a trademark and a kind joking disguise as she made her rounds through restaurants around town. She was famous for a kind of glamorous hauteur, which the bedraggled dining critics of today, with their furtive TikTok feeds and constantly buzzing phones, can only imagine.
Like many women of her generation who were trying to make their mark in what was mostly a stodgy gentleman’s world, Gael on the page stood out for her energy and its fearless style: She was the first big-city critic to take her eyes off the tedious procession of soufflés and canapés that crossed her plates to report on restaurants the way New Yorkers have always tended to see them: as an extension of social status and of the city’s culture at large.
Restaurant critics don’t tend to mingle together much as a rule, especially when they’re working, and Gael was working until not very long ago, as a critic for different outlets around town and on her “Insatiable Critic” website, which is a kind of grab bag of her various passions down through the years. I’ve writtenabout our lunch together at the now-vanished French restaurant Alain Ducasse, where she kindly invited me when the magazine hired me, long ago, to do her job.
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