An inside look at the sketches from designer Ralph Rucci's spring 2022 couture collection
In 2002, twenty years into his career, Ralph Rucci was invited by the Fédération de la Haute Couture to show his custom clothes in Paris, which he did for some years. Last season the designer took a room at the Ritz where clients could peruse his proposals, sketched by Bil Donovan, alongside fabric swatches.
With all the flash and glamour of runway shows, it’s easy to forget that couture designs are essentially proposals. Clients might want a dress in a different color or length: Anything is possible when the work is custom. What draws women to Rucci is his focus on clothes that are “quiet in their luxury and incredible in their technique,” as he put it. His designs are exacting, featuring clean lines and meticulous, made in New York craftsmanship.
There’s a certain pragmatism to Rucci’s sophisticated designs, and his focus is largely on a life lived away from the red carpet. “For me, at least, the privilege is to be able to arrive at a technique in a make of a garment that’s also wearable,” the designer said. An example of this is Look 6, a tricolor silk faille raincoat in a cocoon shape Cristóbal Balenciaga might have approved of.
Rucci’s 41-year career has been a bid to work without compromise. What he’s done with that freedom is hone his distinctive style, polishing and adding to it through research and interaction with clients. “I think if you pull a look out of a collection from 1980, for example, and you look at a piece from this latest couture collection, you could see the total similarity, and that’s what I think I’ve always been about as a designer,” said Rucci. “Couture doesn’t go away,” he added.
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