At the latest event for Nia Lee’s California-based Black queer supper club, the theme was “red drink and respite”in honor of Juneteenth.
To create the Juneteenth menu, Lee consulted her “personal food bible,” the 1970 cookbook-memoirby Vertamae Smart-Grosvenor. They admit some of the event’s offerings were “weird and funky and deeply personal,” but they hope that by “sharing my narratives through food that others will feel inspired to do the same.”
Preparing the Ice Cream Paint Job, a South Carolina Sea Island red-pea fritter with jerk whip and spicy coconut sprinkles named after one of Lee’s favorite songs .The supper-club concept grew “out of necessity,” Lee says, in 2018: She had moved to LA a few years prior and longed for the queer Black communities of the Northeast. “I felt so incredibly alone,” they recall.
The Juneteenth cookouts Lee attended growing up were more than just gatherings, they now realize. “These were ad hoc ceremonial sites, honoring our ancestral histories without us even knowing it,” she notes. “Every Juneteenth I would drink these little red drinks and red Kool-Aid and not quite know why, only now to understand that red is a color that celebrates our ancestors in many West African traditions.
Lee sees her event likewise as a site of Black joy and traditions—and freedom, a cornerstone of Juneteenth. As a Black queer person, they note, “there wasn’t always this space for all my identities. Here, though, all my identities are honored. I want people to feel
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