For their documentary “Food and Country,” director Laura Gabbert and renowned food writer Ruth Reichl gathered a thoughtful and strikingly personable cast of characters from across the U.S. to tell…
,” director Laura Gabbert and renowned food writer Ruth Reichl gathered a thoughtful and strikingly personable cast of characters from across the U.S. to tell their stories in the shadow of the pandemic. Some are chefs, bakers, restaurateurs. Others are independent farmers, ranchers, even a kelp harvester. Some work in big cities, like Los Angeles, Chicago, San Francisco and New York.
In a film brimming with likable interviewees, Reichl, as subject and interlocutor, is arguably the documentary’s most agreeable. Face ringed with dark hair, she sits at her computer at home in New York’s Hudson Valley conducting interviews.
Gabbert ladles Reichl’s biography. There are her forays with her parents to New York City restaurants and her founding of a commune in Berkeley, Calif., with her first husband in the 1960s. Reichl met Waters during that time. Reichl was chef. She also began writing restaurant reviews that were more than reviews. They spun stories. She was a food critic at the Los Angeles Times and then The New York Times.
There’s urgency here but “Food and Country” doesn’t scold. It feeds viewers ideas about what might be scalable in terms of independent farming: Nebraska farmer Angela Knuth prods her husband and sons to go organic. It captures what compassion looked like during the worst days of the pandemic: Bay Area bakery owner and chef Reem Assil, L.A. chef Minh Phan and Ohio vegetable growers Bob and Lee Jones all trying to devise ways to keep people working.
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