Emmett’s on Grove brings the rustic, unpretentious joys of the Wisconsin-style supper club to New York, with a menu that includes thin-crust tavern-cut pizza and baby back ribs
Emmett’s on Grove. Photo: Adam Friedlander Chicago native Emmett Burke has been in New York since college, but he remains a midwestern boy at heart. Eight years ago, after abandoning a finance career, he opened a South Village bar celebrating his hometown cuisine, chiefly the deep-dish pizza New Yorkers love to hate. But Burke has always proselytized for the Second City’s second pie: the thin-crust tavern-cut pizza he started shipping around the country during the pandemic.
Burke is not the first to endeavor to bring the rustic, unpretentious joys of the Wisconsin-style supper club to New York. He is preceded most notably by chef and Wisconsin native Michael White, whose short-lived Tribeca venture the Butterfly borrowed food and drink inspiration from the genre, including riffs on the old-fashioned and the part-drink, part-dessert grasshopper. But White didn’t have Burke’s tavern-cut pies, which have already established a citywide reputation.
How exactly did that come to pass? “My mother and Bill were high-school sweethearts,” says Burke. When his family flew in to celebrate the opening, Burke surprised his mom by inviting Murray too. “He’s the ultimate Chicagoan. I grew up idolizing him.” Celebrity sightings aside, the “club” in supper club isn’t intended to signify exclusivity.
To this formula Burke has added a mostly old-world wine list and a large-format sbagliato mixed tableside. He has upgraded the pizza oven, too, from the gas-powered model at his first location to a spiffy new electric PizzaMaster, which he says retains heat much better. Efficiency is crucial for delivery, the pandemic-spurred service that has helped Burke establish his signature pies as a national brand, and which he will eventually offer at the new spot.
Want more stories like this one? Subscribe now to support our journalism and get unlimited access to our coverage. If you prefer to read in print, you can also find this article in the December 6, 2021, issue of New York Magazine.
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