Multi-Oscar nominee Jacqueline West opens up about creating semi-functional Still Suits and embedding historical references into her costumes.
West’s reputation for deep research and character-driven design was precisely what appealed to Villeneuve as he was envisioning a sci-fi epic of uncommon complexity and grandeur. “He kept saying the reason he wanted me was because of my background in historical work,” West says. “And he had read some quote Brad Pitt once gave saying that I was a ‘method costume designer.’ It was all very flattering, but I just didn’t think I could it.”, then intervened.
I had an incredible concept sketch artist I worked with, Keith Christensen. He came up with about four drawings of the still suit, which I immediately put in front of Denis and Denis just fell in love with them. Once I brought Bob on we took one of those four drawings to Jose Fernandez at Iron Head Studio, [the effects firm specializing in costume and creature design] here in Los Angeles. Jose is also a total Dune freak and he wanted to create something that was absolutely true to the book.
What we did was create a bodysuit out of five or six layers of what we called a “micro sandwich” of fabric. It’s not unlike some of fabric that Under Armour uses to wick water away from the body when football players wear it under their football padding. We selected a beautiful Japanese fabric that would wick water from the body and then it would kind of cool the body when the moisture hit the air of Jordan, through a mesh system of both cotton, nylon and acrylic.
For the other costumes, how helpful was the book? As you said, the still suit is quite meticulously described, but I don’t remember much other detailed description of how characters are dressed. Were there other cues there for you in the source material?The Revenant There are hints everywhere like he aligns the Sardaukar with the planet Salusa Secundus, which is S.S. — and they were the Nazis of this universe. I felt like the Fremen were the French Resistance, so I felt like I had to camouflage them the way the resistance did in the South of France in the war. Every world had a symbol for me.
Once I put myself in their skin, and get rid of all the onion skins, the levels between the inside and the outside, I feel I can then help create the bridge from the actor to the character. I did psychological studies on each of these characters. Lady Jessica is basically a concubine but a very intelligent one and a highly trained Benne Gesserit. Not only does she have a mystical side but she also has an intelligent, old soul side.
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