DressedUndressed Tokyo Spring 2024 collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
In the diverse medley of Tokyo designers, Takeshi Kitazawa is something of an outlier, operating on a philosophical plane that few others tread. He has spent the last two seasons working with the theme of Self Portrait, deeply pondering the irreconcilable nature of reflection and self-awareness. “When we look in the mirror every day, we’re recreating ourselves over and over again,” he said by way of explanation over a Zoom call.
This time he’d taken Stéphane Mallarmé’s seminal poem “Un coup de dés jamais n'abolira le hasard” as a point of inspiration. “Words change a little from when they’re in your head to when you speak them,” said Kitazawa. “And I was encouraged by the poem because it’s about adjustments, so that even when things may look the same, they aren’t the same at all.”
It makes more sense when you see the clothes. Kitazawa designs with extraordinary sensitivity, updating his monochrome tailoring with the tiniest changes each season, tweaking the pattern of a jacket here or using a new fabric there. It’s a meditative, slower approach to fashion which feels refreshing in the industry’s increasingly frenetic and commercialized landscape.
A winking sexuality often crops up in Kitazawa’s work too, and this season it came through in metal nipple brooches on the coolly cut jackets, and in the barely-there translucent tulle which both covered and revealed the body beneath, and onto which were threaded words from the Mallarmé poem. Viewed from afar, the model in look 5 is wearing what appears to be a necktie, but which on closer inspection is her skin contrasting against the straight lines of the white shirt.
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