BALI – When I moved to Bali from Jakarta in September 2021, where I was working as a regional correspondent for The Straits Times, I was in what could be best described as an emotionally and even professionally defensive crouch. My marriage was a smouldering ruin....
Adding to the urgency: easing Covid-19 restrictions meant I was no longer mostly alone in my tropical bubble.
Tourism officials say that only about 5 per cent of arrivals were venturing to places like Buleleng Regency, a 1,400 sq km swathe of Northern Bali with only 650,000 people.Before I do that, a word about one of the little-known perquisites of being a reporter for a big newspaper: I get invited to stuff. Nice stuff. All-expenses-paid stuff. But as a writer normally focusing on supply-chain issues and foreign direct investment, I turn these down.
The detached Gladak-style bungalows with their pitched roofs are fitted with antique panels repurposed from traditional longhouses from Java. Each is fitted with walk-in closets, en-suites and private reading areas. The result is luxurious exposure to the vicissitudes of the tropics at elevation. A crystal clear sunrise set to the soundtrack of the benign din of thousands of distant roosters could quickly give way to wafts of mist pouring through the living room.
I was ensorcelled. I wanted more. And so bitten by the travel-writing bug, I struck out two months later on my second invitation to hilltop luxury – away from the thundering hordes. This time to Elevate Bali by Hanging Gardens which, as it happens, was about 30km from Alam Mountain. “You can experience something unique here,” Mr Agus Suananda, Elevate’s owner, and former head of Buleleng Regency, told me on arrival as we looked out over the Lovina and Bali’s northern coast line 1,100m below.All the public spaces and villas enjoy magnificent views. Once it is completed, the spa and with four detached treatment bungalows will offer guests the experience of untethering from reality by way of massage from a vantage point more than a kilometre above the valley below.
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