Does Retinol Have a Dark Side?

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Does Retinol Have a Dark Side?
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Some beauty experts claim that using the retinol long term will thin the skin and accelerate signs of aging — could it be true?

No doubt about it: retinol has taken on superhero status in the skincare routines of women everywhere. The purest form of vitamin A, retinol fights acne, does away with wrinkles, and pumps up collagen — it’s like having your own personal superpower.

And there’s no question that retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun. “A sunburn can definitely cause skin thinning,” Dr. Icecreamwala says.Skin thickness is partially determined by your genetics. “Those with more melanin in the skin tend to have thicker skin naturally,” she explains — meaning lighter skin tones tend to have thinner skin than darker skin tones. Melanin is also protective against UV damage which helps prevent UV-induced skin thinning.

“Retinol will not decrease the skin barrier if used in the correct dosage,'' agrees Dr. Icecreamwala. In fact, she says it can actually do the opposite: “Because retinol is collagen and elastin-boosting, it can actually help thicken the skin over time if used appropriately.” Even if you have darker — and therefore naturally thicker — skin, you should still proceed with caution. “If the retinol you’re using is too strong for your skin causing inflammation, darker skin tones may have a higher risk of discoloration, or hyperpigmentation, from the use of it," she adds.

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