Corner Bar’s menu includes classics like shrimp cocktail and spaghetti pomodoro, as well as a foie-gras terrine and a seafood platter. “Each was the apotheosis of its form,” Hannah Goldfield writes.
One recent Saturday evening at Le Dive—a new wine bar on the corner of Canal and Ludlow Streets, from the people behind Brooklyn’s Le Crocodile—I watched a foursome seat themselves at a couple of unoccupied café tables outside, as one might in the Eleventh Arrondissement. A host approached; I heard the words “two-hour wait.” Four pairs of eyes grew wide. The group retreated in silent resignation.
Mention Dimes Square on Twitter and the media-class peanut gallery will throw virtual tomatoes at your head. The name was coined, with a big wink, to lovingly skewer a scene of creative types which grew around a slew of businesses in the twenty-tens, including Dimes, a vaguely healthy yet stylish restaurant, and a skate shop called Labor—places whose whiff of Southern California created an exciting friction with the surrounding Manhattan grit.
A crucial ingredient in the alchemy of Dimes Square before it jumped the shark, I would argue, was that the bars and restaurants were just good enough. Le Dive is decidedly not a dive; Clandestino, the seventeen-year-old bar next door, is an archetype of one, and it wasn’t long ago that you didn’t have to elbow your way to a vodka-soda on a Wednesday.
Corner Bar’s Baba au Rhum, a yeasted cake with whipped cream and candied figs, is finished tableside with Plantation rum.
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