Dancing on the Lip of a Volcano: Norma Kamali Says 1970s New York Was a Lot Like Now

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Dancing on the Lip of a Volcano: Norma Kamali Says 1970s New York Was a Lot Like Now
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Designer Norma Kamali talks about the continuing influence of the 1970s and why it’s a decade that still to speaks to today.

This was the very beginning of the idea of a brand, and American fashion. It probably started with Yves Saint Laurent being this famous creative fashion designer who [had so much] influence. [Seeing that], we realized that there was talent in the States, and in New York, especially.

People knew who Norma Kamali was when I did the sweats collection in 1980. [Before that] I was sort of this designer on my own path. I was in the mix of it all, but I would never be considered in with Halston, Ralph Lauren, or Calvin. Actually, it’s the same as it is today. More people know me because of things that I’ve done along the way, but 1980 sort of pushed me into a place where I was distributing globally.Your personal style at this time was extremely influential, too.

Yes. The roots of so much innovation come from that time. If you really look at what designers were doing in the ’70s and the silhouettes—don’t forget, I did the sleeping back coat in the ’70s, I did high-heel sneakers in the ’70s, I did parachute clothes in the ’70s, I did all of these jersey pieces that could be worn lots of different ways that you could wash in the ’70s. Think about that. It was a time that was so different.

The Studio 54 show at the Brooklyn Museum of Art has been postponed, but do you recall what the vibe was when the club opened?

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