As fashion apparel retailers and brands continue to work toward greater circularity, research from Kearney shows the industry needs to do better.
and circularity. Instead, the report’s authors say apparel brands must make significant investments with outcomes paced five to 10 years out.
Ehrig told WWD that with the primary markets, “we assess a brand’s performance around the use of recycled materials, availability of repair, the extent of care instructions, and how prominently they communicate circularity measures. On the secondary markets, we look at the breadth and depth of both secondhand/resale and rental, and how easy they make it to enable recycling.”
With technology, the report stated that mechanical and chemical recycling “are still in their infancy, and both are expensive. Mechanical recycling is more developed, while chemical recycling is just starting to gain traction. Other value chain partners such as equipment manufacturers are trying to adapt their machines toward re-/upcycled materials.”
Ehrig said the analysis does show improvement year over year, “but the pace of that improvement is neither fast enough nor as extensive as it needs to be.” “One of the reasons it’s so challenging for most of the fashion industry to make improvements is it is not vertically integrated, meaning they have little control outside of design and physical distribution/selling, and so much of the upstream value chain is opaque and out of their hands,” Ehrig explained. “I would argue that until fashion companies take more responsibility for orchestrating their upstream value chain, they will continue to have slow progress in improvement in these areas.
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