The Chinese cruller has become a part of Southern California's culinary landscape.
Doughnuts, dumplings, gourmet fish sticks, where to find the perfect croissant plus a sacrilegious bagel and pre-hippie granola bars. I’m Laurie Ochoa, general manager of food coverage at the L.A. Times, with this week’s Tasting Notes.Chances are good that on a weekend morning you’ll find me waiting for a table outside the San Gabriel branch of Delicious Food Corner.
“For my family,” Trinh writes about yu char kway, “they’re not just doughnuts but rather a symbol of resilience in the face of war and genocide.” After the Khmer Rouge takeover of Cambodia that led to Trinh’s family being forced from their Phnom Penh home, her parents escaped to Vietnam and went into the Chinese doughnut business. “The Chinese doughnut would essentially save their lives,” she writes. Years later, in her parents’ San Gabriel home, Trinh’s parents still make their own yu char kway for family gatherings surrounded by young grandchildren learning to love the doughnuts that mean so much to their personal history.
“The humble Chinese doughnut,” she writes, “was a storytelling vehicle for so much of my family’s history and their transnational migration to America.”Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most.We are lucky here in Southern California that the Chinese cruller has become a part of our culinary landscape.
And for all the times I’ve shopped at the San Gabriel 99 Ranch Market, it took Trinh’s guide for me to realize that Chinese doughnuts, as well as roast duck, pork buns and Taiwanese bento boxes, are sold in a corner of the grocery store called Asian Gourmet Kitchen.
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