A chef pours a Beijing-style spirit over the roast duck, then aims a butane torch gun … and whoosh. You're here for the flaming duck at Array 36 in Temple City.
No matter the culture, whatever the era, primal human wiring governs a truism: When a chef trundles a cart into a dark dining room and sets food theatrically ablaze, heads will turn from every direction. At Array 36, an upscale Chinese restaurant in Temple City with a fantastical multimillion-dollar design, the flambéed focal point is a whole lacquered duck. The roasted bird hangs from a hook that juts out from the mouth of a swirling, gold-painted dragon sculpture.
A few strategic suggestions gleaned from experience: Focus less on dumplings and bao and more on braises, fresh seafood and seasonal greens. I’m generally a fan of Shanghainese-style appetizers but found the cold poached chicken in scallion oil lacking seasoning and the smoked fish with preserved plums far sweeter than smoky, though a friend from the region pointed out that the almost sandy fried texture of the fish was correct and on point.
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