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The birthday cake was the first bad sign. Bringing your own food technically wasn’t allowed at the Arlington restaurant where Lorraine McNamara was working the bottomless-brunch shift, but she let it slide. She was already serving the entire patio by herself. Plus, the kitchen was backed up. The birthday group was pounding mimosas on empty stomachs.
Instead, as the group departed, one of the girls’ boyfriends offered her something in lieu of a tip: the remaining birthday cake. “We used to joke after shifts that we’d black out during brunch service, because you have to go on autopilot.” Anthony Bourdain famously called brunch “a horrible, cynical way of unloading leftovers and charging three times as much as you ordinarily charge for breakfast.” Bartender Jeff Litterst has seen plenty of shortcuts aimed at making the bottomless deals economical. At one restaurant where he used to work, the bottomless-brunch entrées were portioned smaller than usual. “They’re really relying on the cheap mimosa pour instead of the usually more expensive food cost,” he says.
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