“I think that today Brazil is beginning to better prepare itself to expose Brazilian ingredients and take the country’s cuisine to other borders.” — Alex Atala, former “Chef’s Table” star and chef of two-Michelin-starred D.O.M.
were the dominant representation of Brazilian food in the U.S. The Brazilian steakhouses swept the country from the 1990s, when chains like Fogo de Chão and Texas de Brazil opened offering dining, a business model that became popular from coast to coast. At the time, these steakhouses were groundbreaking — presenting an essentially Brazilian cuisine to a broad American audience for the first time — and fundamental to setting the stage for the Brazilian restaurant models that came later.
Brazilian-owned, churrasco-focused chain Pampas Grill opened its first location in a Los Angeles farmers market in 2001. The restaurant, now with three locations, focuses on Brazilian barbecue served and priced by the pound, a common restaurant model in Brazil. Pampas catering manager Gabriela Kruschewsky says that back when it opened, there weren’t many Brazilian restaurants in the city.
After the Brazilian steakhouse boom in the 1990s, Brazilian-owned restaurants began to serve hearty cuisine that wasn’t just about cuts of meat on gleaming skewers. These new restaurants offered a more diverse sample of what Brazilians ate at home. When Henrique Stangorlini opened his Brazilian bar and restaurant Beco in Brooklyn in 2009, the comfort foods that shaped his childhood in Brazil were a must, including and, of course, feijoada, the traditional Brazilian stew.
review. Although the restaurant was well received by the public and critics, Troisgros sold it in 1996 to focus on projects in Brazil. “I gave myself three years to stay in NYC. When I accomplished my goal, I came back to Brazil,” Troisgros, who is a member of France’s renowned Troisgros family, said to a local Brazilian newspaper at the time.
Now, chefs Buffara and Oliveira are taking up the torch. Oliveira runs two of the most acclaimed restaurants in São Paulo: Mocotó, focused on northeastern Brazilian cuisine and the newer Balaio, where Oliveira serves updated regional dishes from a modern building inside a cultural center on the city’s most important avenue.to open a branch of Balaio at the upcoming Thompson Hollywood hotel.
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